MARCH 30 - Copenhagen (day 2)

Refreshed after a good night's sleep, we were ready to make the most of our only full day in Copenhagen. Seeing that those from Denmark are Danish, we found it fitting to start our day with coffee and a danish (as you will see, pastry is a reoccurring theme throughout the day). That is when the walking began (another recurring theme). We walked to Kastel (a 16th century fort converted into a park), Rosenborg Slot (the former Royal family's summer home), the University of Copenhagen's botanical gardens, back through Nyhavn, into the Marble Church (with its massive dome), and through a beautifully ornate church in the old town. We then headed to Israel Plads, where the indoor Farmers Market resides. After looking at the fresh seafood, vegetables, and candy, we grabbed smørrebrød - traditional Danish open-faced sandwiches. I had the smoked herring and Carlee had a potato and onion sandwich. Carlee grabbed a cookie (pastry # 2) from a bakery, and the we walked along the five man-made lakes that chain along the west side of the city. We stopped at Nikolaus Strangas' Cakeaway, a recommended bakery in the Vesterbro neighborhood. We each grabbed a caramel and sea-salt macaron (a tiny cookie sandwich, not to be confused with a coconut macaroon - pastry # 3). The macaron was all of one bite, but neither of us had tasted anything like it before... chewy, yet firm, with a oozing caramel center. 

Next, we took a long walk west of town to the Carlsberg Brewery tour. After seeing the world's largest collection of bottled beers and hanging out with the Carlsberg horses (huge, impressive creatures - made us miss our pups), we headed into the bar for our free samples. Sitting down to enjoy the variety of beers was especially gratifying, as we had been on our feet all day. 

After the tour, we walked back into town and enjoyed a shawarma (yummm... spinning meat on a stick) and another pastry (# 4, if you are keeping score at home), before walking through many shops along the Strøget. When we started to get tired, we popped in for some coffee and free wifi. By the time we got back to the streets, it was about 8pm and getting dark.

We swung back by Andy's Bar for another beer and to say goodbye to Fredrig - our torpedoing bartender friend from the previous night. The place was packed... a much different vibe than 24 hours earlier. As soon as I walked in, Fredrig waived me up to the bar, gathered about 5 bartenders together, and he handed me a Corona and bendy straw. "Watch this," he told his co-workers. I torpedoed it clean, leaving his fellow bartenders speachless. Without asking, he poured us two more Tuborgs, like we were drinking the night before. When I tried to pay, he shook his head and again told us we are taken care of. A couple sitting at the bar was so impressed by the torpedo that they offered to buy another Corona so they could watch the torpedo again... but I declined (this torpedo trick really seemed to a big hit). But Carlee and I struck up a conversation with the couple, Thomas and Louisa. Thomas was quick to share his life story with me... he is an electrician, which is apparently a fantastic job in Denmark (paying 200 DKK per hour, he claimed). They invited us to another bar, but we told them that we were tired and hungry. They recommended a high end michelin-starred restaurant, but I told them we were looking for something a bit more low key... and a bit more in my price range. Thomas asked me if we wanted some traditional Danish food... Of course I am going to say yes to this question, and Thomas lit up like a Christmas tree when I accepted the offer. He and Louisa grabbed their coats and told us to follow them. We walked a block down the street to a mobile cart on the side of the road. Even Louisa was very excited to eat at the cart, and I told her to order whatever she recommended for us. A detailed discussion in Danish ensued between Louisa and the cart's attended. The next thing I know, large cuts of meat are being pulled out from under the counter, and the attendant is hand feeding Louisa across the counter to great laughter. Louisa then turned around and handed us the creation: a massive pork sandwich (salted pork rind included) with pickled cabbage, pickles, and a creamy sauce. Meaty, greasy, and delicious. It was so rich, Carlee could only handle a few bites. I polished off mine and then the rest of hers. Then, more conversation between Louisa and the attendant. She turned around and handed us a Ristet hotdog - a weiner covered in ketchup, mustard, crispy onion, pickle, and some creamy sauce. It was unbelievable. As we ate on the side of the road, Thomas was excited we enjoyed his authentic Danish selection. He then turned the conversation to "American" food: he loves TGI Fridays, wanted to know if Wendy's made a good hamburger, he wants to go to an American Hooters (he went to one in Prague and said the waitresses were disappointing), and he talked about his brother's excitement to try a Twinkee - and the sugary remorse that followed. All I could think about was how pathetic it is that this is the culinary legacy America leaves with the world.

After the sandwich and hot dog, I was in a greasy food coma and ready for bed (perhaps a minor heart attack, too). We walked back to the hotel and hit the pillow, ready to re-energize for the journey to Stockholm. 

Walked: 17.14 miles

Total walked: 25.31 miles