MARCH 29 - Copenhagen

For the second consecutive year, landing at London Gatwick proved to be one of life's great joys, and not without good cause. First, there was the short-sighted reaction: we can unfold ourselves from the confines of our Virgin Atlantic seats - believe it or not, airline seats aren't made for our 6'10 and 6'4 frames. The plane may have been named 'Pretty Woman'.... but I will always remember her as 'Pretty Uncomfortable'. I believe I escaped before deep vein thrombosis set in. Second, with landing came a realization of the road ahead... the euphoria that will be the next 17 days. Months of planning and anticipation all coming to fruition. 

First stop: Immigration. In 2011, the non-EU passport holder line at Gatwick was a vision of switchbacks, taking at least an hour. This year, only one person was in the entire line... he happened to be from Pakistan, so he was subjected to what seemed to be an extra-thorough screening, but he cleared and it was our turn just a couple minutes later. The immigration officer was surprised, even shocked, when she saw our Visa to Russia, but she assured us (reluctantly) that we will have a nice holday.

Next up, back through airport security for our Easyjet flight to Copenhagen. We had a three your layover, which worked out well. It gave us a chance to freshen up, brush our teeth, pop our contact lenses in, and grab some British, mayo-laden, pre-packaged sandwiches and coffee. After an uneventful 90 minute flight, we arrived in Copenhagen, gathered some Danish Kroner, and took the 15 minute Metro ride to the center of town.

From the Metro, we passed on the bus and opted for the 1.5 mile walk to our hotel. With our backpacks strapped on, the walk provided a great introduction to the city. We walked down the Strøget (the main pedestrian shopping drag), past the Parliament building, National Museum, and Tivoli Garden - Copenhagen's beloved 19th century amusement park. Our hotel - Wake up Copenhagen - was modern, sleek, and compact. Other than being a bit of a walk from the city center, it certainly proved serviceable. We checked in, dropped our bags off, and hit the streets.

After a stroll along Nyhavn (a canal lined with colorful buildings, cafes, restaurants, and plenty of tourists), we were ready for a beer. We stopped at Andy's Bar - which I had read was a locals' bar known for cheap drinks. As we stepped down into the basement bar, it quickly became apparent that we were the life of the party... since we were the only people in the place. No matter, we ordered a couple Tuborgs and grabbed a seat. I began peppering the bartender (Fredrig, I believe) with questions about the city: places to eat, sights to see, things to do. Through his broken English, Fredrig seemed a bit aloof at first, but he started to warm up when I pointed out the Corona that he was drinking. After a couple more minutes of strained conversation, I noticed some bendy straws behind the bar. "I can drink a bottle of Corona in 3 seconds," I told him. Without blinking, Fredrig opened a bottle, set it in front of me, crossed his arms, and stepped back. I reached over the bar, grabbed a straw, and torpedoed the beer with ease. Impressed with my drinking trick, he reached for a cider and straw, asked for a couple pointers, and he put his own torpedo down. In appreciation for his a new skill, Fredrig returned the favor with several slushee jagerbomb shots and beers... and when we left an hour later, he wouldn't take our money.

Tired and slightly drunk, food was in order. We walked to Christiania, the "free town" where you can't take photographs and the police willfully turn a blind eye. It is Hippie Shakedown meets Woodstock. I found a local recommendation where another tourist apparently wouldn't be found: Splisloppen - a restaurant serving high-quality classic Danish cuisine with a modern flare. The place was nearly impossible to find. Across a garden passage way, down a long corridor, up three flights of stairs, and through an unmarked door. From the looks of the area, I felt like we were going to a rave, but as we entered the restaurant, the surprise was fantastic: a rustic, candle-lit dining hall with low wooden beams and the aroma of delicious food. The menu changes weekly, depending on what is in season and what the chef wants to cook. Carlee had a vegetarian dish (common in Christiania) with asparagus, garlic, and white beans in a crab-cake looking patty, served over fingerling potatoes and smothered in a delicious cream sauce, with a side of grilled veggies in a filo crust. I had a young hen, stuffed with a crab and cream sauce, served with a potato casserole and a minty watermelon salad. Ambiance, taste, and the thrill of just finding the place, I will be shocked if this is not the best meal of our trip.

By the end of dinner, Carlee was ready to fall asleep at the table. The jetlag from the long flight was catching up with us, so we walked to the hotel for some much needed rest.

Walked: 8.17 miles

Trip total: 8.17 miles