I think Tallinn is a great place... I think the people are friendly.... and I think the untouched medieval architecture is stunning. Unfortunately, I can only tell you what I THINK Tallinn is like, since it was buried under mounds of snow. During our 24 hours in Estonia, I don't think it stopped snowing for a split second - no sun, no blue sky, no green grass... the city was lost in an abysmal gray hue. The streets were empty, the bars and restaurants were deserted, and the occassional local seen in public was more concerned with taking cover than conversing with a couple of American tourists. This was not the idea I had in my head when I chose this destination.
But in the springtime, I imagine this place is magnificent - a blip on the map standing still in time. Centuries old and nearly untouched by destructive war, Tallinn is a history buff/traveler's dream stop: Estonia is now on the Euro, but prices are still cheap, the beer is delicious, the food is rustic and hearty. We got a small glimpse of this during a late lunch. We ate at Kloostri Ait - an old grainery, with high, stone walls and a stone fireplace (the picture to the right is a hallway off the main dining area). We drank beer by the fire and then shared some salted herring, salmon & spinach cakes, and meat dumplings. The amibiance was incredible, the food was fantastic, and the cost was small (especially compared to the Scandinavia standards we were used to). Our afternoon confirmed that Tallinn has potential to be a fantastic destination, and it probably will be in just a few short weeks when the snow clears and the days each get about 20 hours of sunlight. We just arrived a little too early in the year.
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| Kloostri Ait: Salted Herring |
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| Kloostri Ait: Meat Dumplings |
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| La Bohemia: the "Estonia Burger" |
We tried to drudge through the snow a bit more after our meal, but the icy cobblestone streets were difficult to navigate. So, we headed back to the hotel early (and for any of you visiting Tallinn, the von Stackelberg Hotel is a fantastic choice - easily the nicest hotel of our trip, and we got a very cheap rate on booking.com). After relaxing in the warmth of our hotel, we decided to break one of my cardinal rules of travel: we ate inside the hotel. I had an inner struggle with myself for several minutes before I accepted the fact that this was our only option. We did not want to go back into the thickening snow to wander to another restaurant, but I have a problem with eating at hotel restaurants. Well, my increasing hunger eventually prevailed and we ate at La Bohemia, in the basement of the von Stackelberg. And, I have to admit, it surpassed all expectations. By no means would I recommend going out of your way for this place, but in a pinch, their herring sandwich (the "Estonia Burger") was tasty and relatively inexpensive.
Despite a good meal, I went to bed in a bit of a funk. We were in Estonia and we couldn't really enjoy our time. Think about it - during the height of winter, this place only gets 4 hours of daylight per day. The snowy season is apparently eight months long. By Tallinn's standards, I think we were actually experiencing reasonably mild weather! But no matter how beautiful it may be from May-September, I'm left wondering why anybody ever decided this was the right place to settle.
Next stop: Moscow, Russia... and I'm already getting tired of singing the weather blues...
Due to the snow, our walking numbers in Tallinn took a big hit:
Walked - 4.77 miles
Total walked - 53.70 miles
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| Kloostri Ait: Salmon & Spinach Cakes |
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| Kloostri Ait: Poached Pear and Cream |
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| My thoughts exactly. |
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| La Bohemia: Strawberry Cheesecake |
I think Tallinn is a great place... I think the people are friendly.... and I think the untouched medieval architecture is stunning. Unfortunately, I can only tell you what I THINK Tallinn is like, since it was buried under mounds of snow. During our 24 hours in Estonia, I don't think it stopped snowing for a split second - no sun, no blue sky, no green grass... the city was lost in an abysmal gray hue. The streets were empty, the bars and restaurants were deserted, and the occassional local seen in public was more concerned with taking cover than conversing with a couple of American tourists. This was not the idea I had in my head when I chose this destination. 
But in the springtime, I imagine this place is magnificent - a blip on the map standing still in time. Centuries old and nearly untouched by destructive war, Tallinn is a history buff/traveler's dream stop: Estonia is now on the Euro, but prices are still cheap, the beer is delicious, the food is rustic and hearty. We got a small glimpse of this during a late lunch. We ate at Kloostri Ait - an old grainery, with high, stone walls and a stone fireplace (the picture to the right is a hallway off the main dining area). We drank beer by the fire and then shared some salted herring, salmon & spinach cakes, and meat dumplings. The amibiance was incredible, the food was fantastic, and the cost was small (especially compared to the Scandinavia standards we were used to). Our afternoon confirmed that Tallinn has potential to be a fantastic destination, and it probably will be in just a few short weeks when the snow clears and the days each get about 20 hours of sunlight. We just arrived a little too early in the year. 
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