APRIL 14 - London

NOTE: I wrote this journal entry back on April 14, but I have not posted it until today. We are now only a few days away from the opening ceremonies of the Olympics, and I have not heard anything about London being unprepared for the games and the crowds. Rather, I have heard the opposite - that London was ahead of schedule and much more prepared than previous Olympic hosts. Three months ago, East London did not look ready at all, but I was correct about one thing in the post below: the Olympic Village's Orbit tower is absolutely hideous.


London is my home away from home. Behind only Vegas and L.A., I just feel comfortable when I'm back in London. This was my fifth visit, having studied there twice, and just stopping through on my other European travels. It's comforting to be in a city where I don't need a map, I know the local spots, and feel like I can just enjoy the city rather than having to see something touristy. With only 24 hours in London on this quick visit (and sadly, the last visit of our fantastic adventure), I only had three goals - lunch on Brick Lane, a tour east of town to see the Olympics grounds, and eat and drink the evening away in my favorite pub in the world. Getting to London from Paris is an easy (albeit a bit pricy) train ride through the Chunnel - one of the more anti-climactic experiences of travel. It may sound cool to traverse the English Channel underwater, but you are in a dark tunnel the entire time (and in fact, you never even see the water when entering or exiting the tunnel). After getting into St. Pancras Station, we got our Tube day pass, dropped our bags off, and we were ready to make the most of our final day of adventure.

Many people believe that the best Indian food in the world can be found in.... London, of course. And the heart of London's Indian food scene is Brick Lane, located north of Aldgate and just outside the Circle Line. Walking down the street, the smell of curry is inescapable, as the street is line with one curry shop after another. Every restaurant touts some award on a banner out front, too: Voted Best Curry 2009, Top Curry Chef 2010, Curry Cook-off Winner 2008.... the signs are endless. Plus, each restaurant has a guy out front that will try to convince you that his £7 lunch special is better than every other £7 lunch special. Needless to say, choosing a restaurant is tough, but you can take comfort in knowing that pretty much any Indian restaurant on Brick Lane will be very good. For no good reason, we chose Eye of the East, and Brick Lane's reputation for having great food passed the test. The Pathia Chicken was full of flavor and the naan was fluffy and fresh.

The 2012 Olympics are just a few months away, so we wanted to see what London had done in preparation for the games. I walked away not so much impressed with what had been done, but shocked at how much London has left to do. The city chose a run-down industrial area east of town to build up a new Olympic village. The Olympic Stadium, Aquatic Center, and Arena are all built and just need some final touch-up work, but the infrastructure and surrounding neighborhoods are nowhere near prepared. About 6 Tube Stations surround the Olympic site, and we decided to approach from Bow Road in the southwest. The neighborhood, though not threatening, is a bit run down and tired. Graffiti and litter were pervasive, the sidewalks were dirty, and signage to the Olympic facility was sparse. The Olympic site is built amongst wetlands and a series of canals, and there were some kayakers in the water searching for a good view of the area, but the water in the canals was a murky, rubbish was floating, and the canal walls were caked in sludge. Hopefully these canals get cleaned in the next few months. To top it off, the traffic and congestion in the area was abhorrent, as many of the streets in the area are completely ripped up. We saw a handful of blocks where piping was being laid underneath the road. I'm sure London will see to it that everything is ready before the opening ceremony, but right now, the area is not terribly appealing. The only problem that certainly won't be fixed is the massive eyesore that they refer to as the Orbit - a red metal viewing tower built right in the middle of the Olympic grounds. At a price tag of £20 million, you would think the designers could come up with something better than a Kinects project gone horribly wrong. I imagine in 25 years, the Orbit will be as big an eyesore to London as the Olympic Stadium is to Montreal - the Olympic committee should really get away from this recurring futuristic theme.

Quite a bit of work to be done in East London before the Olympics begin.

We took the Tube back into town for a stop by Ben's Cookies on Oxford Street. Carlee thinks the White Chocolate Cranberry cookies are the best cookies she has ever had, so we had one there and bought a box to take home (though several in the box were inevitably eaten throughout the rest of the evening).

For our last event on our 2012 European Adventure, I wanted nothing more than to take the Tube to Chancery Lane for drinks and dinner at my favorite pub in the world - Cittie of Yorke. I found this place when I was studying in London in 2004, and it immediately became our after-class drinking spot. The long wooden bar, beer casks hanging from the ceiling, and the nooks and crannys provide for a neat, sophisticated ambiance. This isn't an all-night party type of place, but locals flock to this place for delicious pub food and fantastic beer. I am a huge beer fan (if you couldn't tell by reading all of these posts), and Samuel Smith's Old Brewery Bitter Cask Ale is perhaps the finest beer I have ever had. Smooth, creamy, and hand-pumped, it makes me wonder why nobody in the U.S. brews cask ales. A meat pie, fries (with mayo, of course), toffee pudding, and a handful of pints later, we strolled through town on our way back to the hotel... all the while reminiscing about the past 17 days and already anxiously discussing where we will be headed on our next adventure. Thank you all for following us on this trip! I hope you could sense the joy and passion we have for our travels, and I would encourage you all to venture out to find your own amazing places.


Walked - 12.48 miles
GRAND TOTAL WALKED - 210.68 miles

St. Paul's Cathedral, with the Shard in the background (the Shard is the tallest building in the EU, and it opened in July, just a few weeks after this picture was taken.

  

Toffee Pudding @ Cittie of Yorke

APRIL 12-13 - Paris

Paris can keep your attention for a week, a month, a lifetime. Endlessly full of things to do, it is no wonder this is one of the world's most touristed cities. Renowned museums, magnificent cathedrals, gardens, monuments, colorful neighborhoods, and sidewalk cafes... So how do you take in Paris in just over two days? You walk a marathon and absorb beyond your saturation point. I have to admit, of all the stops on this trip, I was the least excited about Paris. I had been here a couple of times before, so I wasn't thrilled about spending hours in the Louvre, Musee D'Orsay, Eiffel Tower, Sainte-Chapelle, and the infamous ticket lines for each. Fortunately (for me), Carlee has a limited attention span in museums, and she had hit her art-limit at the enormous Hermitage in St. Petersburg. So instead of looking at art like most tourists would, we walked the streets for two days to the tune of over 37 miles. And any hesitation I had about visiting Paris again was washed away, as I discovered new parts of the City of Light, far from the touristed Ile De la Cite, Champs Elysees, or Latin Quarter.



We found Le Marché des Enfants Rouges, said to be the oldest food market in Paris (with history dating back to the reign of King Louis XIII in 1614. The market was quiet, inconspicuously tucked into a courtyard off the busy street. Inside, we met a cooky shopowner, who claimed to make the best sweet crepe in the whole world. Using organic ingredients from local farmers, he filled the sweet crepe with lemon zest and sugar, and his claim very well could be accurate. His savory crepes were incredible too, full of organic cheese, fresh ham from the deli counter across the aisle, and grilled organic onions. As we waited for our crepes, the shopowner let us sample his other breads and pastries, while he peppered us with questions about living in Las Vegas (a fact which never ceases to amaze people - our desert town has quite the global reputation!)


We wandered west to La Defense, Paris' modern day commercial hub, where the modern buildings and massive cubist arch structure seem worlds away from the historical city center.





We went south to Butte aux Cailles, a hilltop neighborhood that feels more like its own small village than an area just a few metro stops outside the city center.  Popular with artists and younger Parisians, this area had a long street market and countless coffee shops and bistros.



We went to Marais, an area just east of the city center, where we had dinner at Le Rollin, a quaint bistro with fantastic Parisian cuisine. I enjoyed Duck Confit over a bed of mashed potato, and Carlee had a tasty Risotto topped with a hearty filet of sea bass. Accompanied with a bottle of red Bordeaux, it was our most 'French' meal. 

We made our way to the Jewish Quarter near Bastille, where blocks of pedestrian streets are lined with some of the finest falafel shops. We strolled along the streets surround Canal St. Martin and we walked through Passage Brady - the Bengali heart of Paris.



Of course, we managed to be touristy beyond stereotype at times, too. On Thursday, we bought a baguette, wine, and cheese, and ate it at the base of the Eiffel Tower... and we did the same thing again on Friday, followed by a climb to the top for an afternoon view of the city. And I offer this tip to anyone that may be visiting the Eiffel Tower - do not waste hours of your day in the ticket line for the elevator. Either reserve the elevator tickets ahead of time or take the stairs to the second level. The reservation completely elimates the line, while the stairs allow you to stand in a line that only takes a few minutes, not several hours.








We fought the crowds at several other touristy sights too: the Notre Dame, the Sacre Couer, the Jardin du Luxembourg, and we had the obligatory scoop of ice cream at Berthillon (the Prailine Chocolate Orange was fantastic), but seeing the other side of Paris made the visit worthwhile. Plus, getting away from the touristy sights proved that the French are friendly, even to a non-French speaker like myself (though I became quite adept at greeting French shop-owners, restaurant hosts, and bartenders with an elementary "bonjour, madame" or "bonsoir, monsieur"). Maybe it is just the folks that deal with hoards of English-expectant tourists that get a bit grumpy.

My 2011 Austrian
foot/shoe savior!

Unfortunately, the hoards of tourists seemed more prevalent than ever in Paris (and throughout Europe, for that matter). Maybe it is my imagination, but buses full of tour groups caught my eye more often compared to previous years. Personally, the thought of being in one of those pre-packaged tour groups makes me cringe. Sure, these groups roll into a city for a day and infuse the tourist traps with money. But the tour groups are typically spoon-fed a watered-down version of the culture. I understand the appeal to some: tour groups make travel easy and convenient, but I believe so much of a traveler's experience is working through the barriers and unexpected difficulties. Trying to figure out how to traverse a city's Metro system, how to order dinner without an English menu, how to how to find a hotel/restaurant/sight when all you have is an address (which never used to seem that hard - see the Moscow post), or how to explain to a craftsman without any common language bond that the insole of your shoe is broken and your feet are being blistered - these are the dificulties but also the joys and accomplishments of travel. In stark contrast, the tour groups are led by an umbrella-wielding guide that is largely disinterested in anything but getting tips. The tour groups flock to the major sights, completely missing out on the culture, the locality, the people. They are insulated within their small group, never interacting with locals, staying at sterile Americanized hotels outside the city center (because it is cheaper for the tour groups), chartering around in air-conditioned buses, eating bland imitations of the local food and taking canned tours of only the most touristy sights... I understand that the tour groups are the only way some people will will brave the rigors of international travel, but it certainly takes away from the level of adventure.



In spite of the hoards of tourists, Paris is undeniably one of the world's most beautiful and romantic cities. Carlee and I left Paris with our own memento: a love-lock on the Pont des Arts. The love-lock bridge is a concept that is spreading across Europe. Couples decorate a padlock with their names, lock their padlock to the wires of the bridge, and then toss the keys into the water below as a symbolic sign of unbreakable love.  Cheesy?  Yes.  Romantic?  Absolutely, as several other couples were also locking up their love with the Eiffel Tower twinkling on the horizon.


Needless to say, our 37 miles of walking took us to unique areas of Paris that tour groups simply skate over. The city is beautiful, the pace is relaxing, and you really can't say enough about the quality or quantity of Parisian cuisine. Delicious pastry, silky chocolate, endless styles of cheese, and fine (and inexpensive) wine. I can't wait for a trip back to find new secrets in the City of Light, and to revisit our special love-lock (east side of the bridge, 6 light poles from the south bank - this is for my recollection as much as it is for your own "Where's Waldo" adventure to find our padlock). April 12 Walked - 18.83 miles Total walked - 179.81 miles April 13 Walked - 18.39 miles Total walked - 198.20 miles

Sacre Couer

Le Rollin - Sea Bass & Risotto

Coffee & dessert in Butte aux Cailles

APRIL 10 - Cesky Krumlov

We have all heard that variety is the spice of life, and the small town of Cesky Krumlov provided the perfect seasoning after a hearty spread of big city travels (Tallinn was supposed to provide a similar change-of-pace earlier in the trip, but you may recall that Mother Nature felt it wise to keep us snowed in). Tucked into a hilly valley about 2.5 hours south of Prague by bus, Krumlov is a picturesque village straight out of a fairy tale. Perched above the town, a castle and lookout tower sit atop a rocky crag, while the streets below weave along an 'S' shaped bend in the Vlatva River. Just stepping foot in Krumlov will take you back a few centuries. A tour of the castle and a climb up the tower are pretty much obligatory on any visit to Krumlov, while the other 'sights' are largely limited to the cathedral and a few various museums. But the real draw in Krumlov is the village itself. Just walking the streets will transport you back to a time centuries ago. Three pedestrian bridges cross the river, and by foot, the entire town is walkable in an afternoon. In fact, you are likely to run into the same groups of tourists over and over again, since the small number of streets eventually will wind you back to one another. The streets are lined with shops, tea houses, bars, and restaurants, many with seating on the banks of the Vlatva. The shop owners and waiters were largely friendly (though I'm sure their patience can understandably run thin during the summer months, when the town is famously over-run by tour groups). In contrast to our frenetically-paced previous stops, Krumlov was simply a great place for a leisurely stroll. Adding to the relaxation was our stay at Krumlov House. Carolyn, who runs the hostel with her husband, is an ex-pat who fell in love with Krumlov on a backpacking trip.... and she couldn't bring herself to leave. Her hospitality and insight were very comforting, and it is obvious that she genuinely cares about her guests and her town. She took time to show us her favorite restaurants on the map, and she walked us to our cottage, which was complete with a private backyard and patio on the river and our own kitchen. Not only was this the nicest room of our trip, it was also the cheapest. Speaking of cheap, the value of the US Dollar still goes a long way in the Czech Republic, especially outside of Prague. Shopping, eating, drinking, accommodations, transportation, everything was well-priced (here is to hoping the Czech Republic does not convert over to the Euro anytime soon).


And after our eating binge in Prague, you would think we would need a detox, but the food and drink in Krumlov wouldn't allow for it. Everything we ate and drank was fantastic. Krumlov's local brewery, Eggenberg, provided fantastic beer, and the cocktails at Apotheke were unique, innovative, and delicious. We tried a Czech twist on the mojito, made with honey, lime, mint, balsamic vinegar, Italian liqieur, and stout beer. It may sound odd, but we ordered a second round and took careful note of the ingredients and process so we can try to make this drink when we get home. We also had a run-in with absinthe, which can only be described as highly combustable with a strong taste of ethanol and a hint of lighter fluid. If you like rubbing alcohol or headaches, this drink is for you. 



We ate dinner at Krcma v Satlavske, another medieval style restaurant, where massive portions of pork knee are cooked over a firepit in the center of the restaurant. Squeemish vegetarians beware.


    


And then there were the blueberry stuffed dumplings. Forget what I said about the orange tart in St. Petersburg. This dumpling, served at Na Louizi - a tiny Czech bistro, is unequivocally the most amazing dessert we have ever had. The dumplings were perfectly doughy and moist, and the blueberries were juicy and sweet. When we cut into the first dumpling, it let out a decadent sound (which I didn't even know existed)... a moist, suctioned, squish of the juicy blueberries gasping for oxygen, being released from the air-tight dumpling. In 24 hours, we went to Na Louzi twice, and someday, I vow to make another pilgrimage to Krumov... if only for the blueberry dumpling.


First trip to Na Louzi (lunch - including the dumpling above):

Second trip to Na Louzi (breakfast before leaving Krumlov: two fist-sized dumplings and a pork/kraut omelet.... all for an outrageous $6.00):


     If you are ever in Bohemia, I strongly urge you to go to Krumlov, stay with Carolyn at Krumlov House, and please please please bring back a blueberry dumpling for me. Krumlov recharged our batteries, and we followed it up with an impressive travel day: Breakfast (blueberry dumplings, of course) in Cesky Krumlov... Bus ride ($7)... Lunch (Easter street market, again) in Prague... Metro ($1) to airport.... Flight ($27) on Easyjet... Bus ($12)... Metro ($2)... In time for dinner (Shawarma) in Paris. Gotta love cheap European transportation. So we are ready to tackle Paris and London before we head home. It is sad to see our Easy Go backpacks getting empty, but our light packs have left us with loads of memories. And here are the latest mileage figures: April 10 Walked - 8.15 miles Total walked - 152.48 miles April 11 Walked - 8.50 miles Total walked - 160.98 miles