APRIL 12-13 - Paris

Paris can keep your attention for a week, a month, a lifetime. Endlessly full of things to do, it is no wonder this is one of the world's most touristed cities. Renowned museums, magnificent cathedrals, gardens, monuments, colorful neighborhoods, and sidewalk cafes... So how do you take in Paris in just over two days? You walk a marathon and absorb beyond your saturation point. I have to admit, of all the stops on this trip, I was the least excited about Paris. I had been here a couple of times before, so I wasn't thrilled about spending hours in the Louvre, Musee D'Orsay, Eiffel Tower, Sainte-Chapelle, and the infamous ticket lines for each. Fortunately (for me), Carlee has a limited attention span in museums, and she had hit her art-limit at the enormous Hermitage in St. Petersburg. So instead of looking at art like most tourists would, we walked the streets for two days to the tune of over 37 miles. And any hesitation I had about visiting Paris again was washed away, as I discovered new parts of the City of Light, far from the touristed Ile De la Cite, Champs Elysees, or Latin Quarter.



We found Le Marché des Enfants Rouges, said to be the oldest food market in Paris (with history dating back to the reign of King Louis XIII in 1614. The market was quiet, inconspicuously tucked into a courtyard off the busy street. Inside, we met a cooky shopowner, who claimed to make the best sweet crepe in the whole world. Using organic ingredients from local farmers, he filled the sweet crepe with lemon zest and sugar, and his claim very well could be accurate. His savory crepes were incredible too, full of organic cheese, fresh ham from the deli counter across the aisle, and grilled organic onions. As we waited for our crepes, the shopowner let us sample his other breads and pastries, while he peppered us with questions about living in Las Vegas (a fact which never ceases to amaze people - our desert town has quite the global reputation!)


We wandered west to La Defense, Paris' modern day commercial hub, where the modern buildings and massive cubist arch structure seem worlds away from the historical city center.





We went south to Butte aux Cailles, a hilltop neighborhood that feels more like its own small village than an area just a few metro stops outside the city center.  Popular with artists and younger Parisians, this area had a long street market and countless coffee shops and bistros.



We went to Marais, an area just east of the city center, where we had dinner at Le Rollin, a quaint bistro with fantastic Parisian cuisine. I enjoyed Duck Confit over a bed of mashed potato, and Carlee had a tasty Risotto topped with a hearty filet of sea bass. Accompanied with a bottle of red Bordeaux, it was our most 'French' meal. 

We made our way to the Jewish Quarter near Bastille, where blocks of pedestrian streets are lined with some of the finest falafel shops. We strolled along the streets surround Canal St. Martin and we walked through Passage Brady - the Bengali heart of Paris.



Of course, we managed to be touristy beyond stereotype at times, too. On Thursday, we bought a baguette, wine, and cheese, and ate it at the base of the Eiffel Tower... and we did the same thing again on Friday, followed by a climb to the top for an afternoon view of the city. And I offer this tip to anyone that may be visiting the Eiffel Tower - do not waste hours of your day in the ticket line for the elevator. Either reserve the elevator tickets ahead of time or take the stairs to the second level. The reservation completely elimates the line, while the stairs allow you to stand in a line that only takes a few minutes, not several hours.








We fought the crowds at several other touristy sights too: the Notre Dame, the Sacre Couer, the Jardin du Luxembourg, and we had the obligatory scoop of ice cream at Berthillon (the Prailine Chocolate Orange was fantastic), but seeing the other side of Paris made the visit worthwhile. Plus, getting away from the touristy sights proved that the French are friendly, even to a non-French speaker like myself (though I became quite adept at greeting French shop-owners, restaurant hosts, and bartenders with an elementary "bonjour, madame" or "bonsoir, monsieur"). Maybe it is just the folks that deal with hoards of English-expectant tourists that get a bit grumpy.

My 2011 Austrian
foot/shoe savior!

Unfortunately, the hoards of tourists seemed more prevalent than ever in Paris (and throughout Europe, for that matter). Maybe it is my imagination, but buses full of tour groups caught my eye more often compared to previous years. Personally, the thought of being in one of those pre-packaged tour groups makes me cringe. Sure, these groups roll into a city for a day and infuse the tourist traps with money. But the tour groups are typically spoon-fed a watered-down version of the culture. I understand the appeal to some: tour groups make travel easy and convenient, but I believe so much of a traveler's experience is working through the barriers and unexpected difficulties. Trying to figure out how to traverse a city's Metro system, how to order dinner without an English menu, how to how to find a hotel/restaurant/sight when all you have is an address (which never used to seem that hard - see the Moscow post), or how to explain to a craftsman without any common language bond that the insole of your shoe is broken and your feet are being blistered - these are the dificulties but also the joys and accomplishments of travel. In stark contrast, the tour groups are led by an umbrella-wielding guide that is largely disinterested in anything but getting tips. The tour groups flock to the major sights, completely missing out on the culture, the locality, the people. They are insulated within their small group, never interacting with locals, staying at sterile Americanized hotels outside the city center (because it is cheaper for the tour groups), chartering around in air-conditioned buses, eating bland imitations of the local food and taking canned tours of only the most touristy sights... I understand that the tour groups are the only way some people will will brave the rigors of international travel, but it certainly takes away from the level of adventure.



In spite of the hoards of tourists, Paris is undeniably one of the world's most beautiful and romantic cities. Carlee and I left Paris with our own memento: a love-lock on the Pont des Arts. The love-lock bridge is a concept that is spreading across Europe. Couples decorate a padlock with their names, lock their padlock to the wires of the bridge, and then toss the keys into the water below as a symbolic sign of unbreakable love.  Cheesy?  Yes.  Romantic?  Absolutely, as several other couples were also locking up their love with the Eiffel Tower twinkling on the horizon.


Needless to say, our 37 miles of walking took us to unique areas of Paris that tour groups simply skate over. The city is beautiful, the pace is relaxing, and you really can't say enough about the quality or quantity of Parisian cuisine. Delicious pastry, silky chocolate, endless styles of cheese, and fine (and inexpensive) wine. I can't wait for a trip back to find new secrets in the City of Light, and to revisit our special love-lock (east side of the bridge, 6 light poles from the south bank - this is for my recollection as much as it is for your own "Where's Waldo" adventure to find our padlock). April 12 Walked - 18.83 miles Total walked - 179.81 miles April 13 Walked - 18.39 miles Total walked - 198.20 miles

Sacre Couer

Le Rollin - Sea Bass & Risotto

Coffee & dessert in Butte aux Cailles